Travel inspired
Belize/Guatemala - February- March 2025
Hello: Hello
Thank You: Thank You
English is the language of Belize
Currency: Currency is the Belizean dollar, although they also accept U.S. dollars (and credit cards) at many places. The exchange rate is $2 Belizean to $1 U.S. Be sure to read menus and other rates accurately as many are posted in Belizean dollars but some will state U.S. For the few days I was in Guatemala, I did not need to exchange money since I could pay for any meals with a credit card.
Planning Your Trip: Being based in the Philadelphia area, I could not find a direct flight to Belize City and every connection was a bit short, one hour or less. I would suggest flying in a day early so any travel issues don’t disrupt your trip if you are on a tight schedule.
You will need to complete some pre-arrival documentation to smooth your entry into Belize. Your airline should provide you with the website (https://belizetravel.immigration.gov.bz/Belize_Digital_Forms/) and once you complete the form, make sure to take a screen shot of the QR code to store on your phone, in case you don’t have cell service on arrival. One thing the airline NEGLECTED to share was that you need to complete a similar form when you exit Belize. You can use the same website for arrivals and departures. There are a few signs posted in the airport, but most people seemed to miss them as they queued for security and then had to leave the line, find an internet connection (there was free web access in the airport), and fill in the form. This could have been much easier if only the airline would tell everyone at check-in. And it would have saved a lot of stress for everyone. I noticed some very angry departing travelers.
Once I arrived in the Belize airport, I had an arranged ride to my hotel, about a 30-minute ride. My driver gave me some insight on Americans in Belize. As is happening in other countries, Americans are relocating to Central America because they are finding it too expensive to retire in the U.S. Of course, when they buy “low cost” housing in places like Mexico, Costa Rica, or Belize, it drives up prices for the locals, making housing unaffordable. This is also happening in other parts of the world as more and more people retire and find the expense of living in America too much, especially with health care costs.
I traveled with an Explore group and once again, I lucked out by having three wonderful couples from the UK as my travel friends for two weeks, along with an excellent local guide named Wilfred, a creole Belizean. One advantage of traveling with a group is that a local guide can add so much to your trip with his or her stories and knowledge of their country. I must give Wilfred a lot of credit for his ability to share so much information with us as we traveled from place to place. And of course, a trip is made even better by having fun travel companions to talk to and share meals and experiences.
Wilfred told us about the history of Belize as a former colony and described how flooding and storms have been more severe in recent years. And as we wandered from place to place, Wilfred seemed to be connected to people wherever we stopped in the small country. Perhaps, in Belize, the rule of six degrees of separation is condensed to about three degrees of separation.
It was an interesting time to be in Belize, as they geared up for an election between two parties, with groups gathered at various places and the requisite political signs in every busy area. On election day, the woman at the hotel where I was staying said she could not vote because she would have to take off a day of work with no pay and take a ferry, then a bus to her hometown to vote. Although the politicians can send a proxy to vote for them, for ordinary people there is no other way to vote because they don’t have mail-in ballots or absentee ballots.
If you plan to spend time in the ocean, you should try to find reef safe sunscreen. There are a couple that I’ve used – Think Sport (purchased at REI) and Stream2Sea (available at many dive shops). After all, if you are a fan of the ocean, don’t you want to preserve it?
Lodging:
Golden Bay Hotel - good hotel but not much around. A very short taxi ride to the ferry dock which is handy for coming and going to the islands. Good food in the restaurant.
Birds Eye View Lodge - very basic hotel. Meals were buffet style with limited choices, but the food was good. Beautiful setting on the lake.
Sea Spray Hotel - Great location on the beach but very basic and the rooms are small. Some rooms have a small refrigerator. Be aware that the bar next door can play loud music until late at night.
Cahal Pech Village Resort - Very tired hotel but the rooms are big and the view is excellent. In my room, the AC dripped all over the floor and the curtains. In the shower, the water went from hot to cold, so it was a game each time I showered.
Jungle Lodge Tikal – The jungle setting was beautiful, the food was good, and the rooms were nice. The shower was a true test of resilience as it seemed almost impossible to have consistent warm water.
La Isla Resort – The hotel on Caye Caulker was a short walk from the ferry dock with a view of the ocean. It was a basic hotel and the staff was very helpful. The location was perfect for exploring the island as everything was a short walk away.
Food: There are so many great food choices in Belize. Food was very good overall. There was a good variety of chicken (with rice and beans) and fish along with chips and vegetables. Breakfast could be a burrito with eggs and cheese or yogurt with fruit. A few suggestions on what to try and what you’ll find. I would avoid drinking the tap water.
Ceviche – the best! Served with chips and hot sauce, it was worth trying the different varieties almost everywhere we went.
Maria Sharp’s hot sauce – the different levels of “heat” are indicated on each bottle with small checked circles on the label. I found myself partial to the “Beware, Comatose Heat Level”.
Lobster – if you are lucky enough to be there before lobster season ends at the end of February, it is worth trying. I recommend NOT to get the grilled lobster as it becomes too tough. Those who ordered broiled had a much better experience.
In Placencia, I had an excellent fish stew for dinner one night.
In Tikal, we ate our meals at the hotel, but the food was very good. I had a tuna bowl for lunch (like a pokey bowl) and Bolognese for dinner with chocolate cake for dessert.
In Flores, while exploring the small town, we stopped for drinks and I had a delicious chai tea and some wonderful tacos for lunch (rolled and crispy, stuffed with chicken).
Since I stayed in Caye Caulker for an extra week, here are some of the restaurants I tried:
Enjoy bar – Had two good lunches there - Mexican tacos and ceviche that were both excellent.
Namaste Cafe - Delicious curry chicken salad sandwich with hibiscus tea; a few days later, the same chicken salad on a bed of greens.
Errolyn’s House of Fry Jacks – Get in line early for an inexpensive and delicious breakfast (or early lunch).
Hibisca - A dinner of ceviche, a rice ball and another fried veggie ball. Very yummy.
Paradiso café - A hearty salad with lime juice drink.
Maggie’s Sunset Kitchen – A chicken plate with some ridiculously delicious plantain. Arrive before sunset for a great view from your table while enjoying your dinner.
Earl’s on the beach – There is a line for a reason. Good jerk chicken plate with corn and plantain (but they forgot the plantain)
Agave’s-Delicious street tacos served to order.
Il Pellicano - Very good gnocchi with cannellini beans and shrimp in a tomato sauce
Ice and Beans – Breakfast place with long lines; good yogurt with fruit and free coffee samples.
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Following is a summary of the different areas we explored and some key sites to visit.
Wilfred grew up close to the Altun Ha site and even played around the ruins as a child. And yes, we did stop on the way so he could say “hello” to his mother. Because he has spent so much time in the area, he could plan our arrival so that we had the place to ourselves. The towering ruins invited a closer look and we were all game for a scramble up the steep stone steps to see the views of the other tall ruins, and the dense jungle landscape from the top.
The advantage of staying in the small hotel at the Crooked Tree Wildlife Reserve is the ability to take an early morning river cruise to see the vast variety of birds in the reserve. We saw eight of the nine herons including the grand blue heron and the green heron. We passed some trees along the river adorned with snake cactus (also known as devil’s gut), a curling vegetation wrapped around the branches, resembling a large and intimidating serpent. We were far enough away from an urban area that the sky was fantastically dark at night allowing us to see Mars, Jupiter, Orion’s Belt, and the big dipper. We also looked for resident wildlife in the dark (excluding mosquitoes please!) and were able to see the glowing red eyes of a nightjar as it searched for food.
From the Crooked Tree, we took another boat to visit the 2000-year-old ruins of Lamanai, over an hour boat ride down the river. Along the way we spotted more birds, a large crocodile, some baby crocodiles, and a few turtles sunning on logs, and the ultimate prize - a jabiru stork high in the sky. Once we docked, the ruin was a short walk from strategically placed picnic tables for a quick lunch. We visited a small museum and then investigated an abandoned sugar mill that only existed about 15 years in the 1800’s. Bats were resting inside one of the narrow openings running at the base of the structure. Lamanai consists of four large temples, one being very impressive with distinct face carvings, known as the Temple of the Masks. At most ruins, steps existed so that visitors could climb to the top, a great way to appreciate the location and views.
We visited the Baboon Sanctuary, mistakenly named by the British who didn’t know a howler monkey when they saw one. We walked through the reserve with a guide, as he pointed out different plants and birds and then led us to an area to see the somewhat elusive animals - the howler monkeys. What we didn’t realize is that a man who owned the land adjacent was feeding the monkeys and so they came out of the trees and poised for us! Unnatural but effective. Our guide was not happy with this ploy. As a bonus, we saw a vermillion flycatcher, poising for us on a high wire. A striking and brilliant bird!
Placencia
It was time to head to the beach and enjoy the ocean. And yes, you could get in the water, which was welcome after a hot day, but a walk on the beach revealed an alarming amount of plastic trash everywhere. On our first evening, we went to a local bar called the Thirsty Tuna, where a group of local Garifuna people performed a dance.
Staying on the beach gave us the opportunity to really enjoy the ocean with a day of snorkeling. We took a boat out to a small island, part of a reserve, staffed by rangers who took small groups around the island snorkeling. A spectacular array of fish - greenish-blue, dark with cobalt spots, barracudas, giant angel fish, yellow-striped angel fish, fish with spots that looks like large eyes, tiny yellow fish, even tinier blue fish, all chomping on coral. And so many types of coral - brain coral, the sea fans, sea anemones, sea urchins, fire coral, and elk head coral.
And then there was the plastic. We swam through a constant curtain of plastic of all shapes and sizes, catching on our arms, legs, even on my snorkel. It was rather distressing, but the guides assured us that there were regular ocean clean-up efforts.
Because there are usually a few groups on the small island from different boats, trips include lunch at picnic tables on the beach before you take off for another snorkel in the afternoon. At the end of the afternoon, you have completed a total circumnavigation of the small island, exploring all the coral and the fish.
Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve – Everyone wants to claim a jaguar sighting, but the jaguars always remain elusive. We went for a wander through the preserve hoping to catch a glimpse of the beasts, but settled for a good little hike up a steep trail to Ben’s Bluff for a view of Mt. Victoria. As the clouds lifted, the view of the distant peak was almost as rewarding. On the way up (or down), you can make a cooling stop at a small waterfall with a pool for dipping your tired feet. Just be forewarned of the black flies that will target your bare skin (even if only your ankles), drawing blood and leaving small welts that take a few weeks to heal.
Once you leave the preserve, the Blue Hole is another place to stop for a quick cooling swim as we traveled to San Ignacio. We also stopped at a local place for Belizean made chocolates. A delicious feeding frenzy as we raced to eat the dark chocolate bars before they melted.
San Ignacio
This small city was the place to stay to explore western Belize. Our hotel sat at the top of a very steep hill, and even our mini-van seemed to struggle its way up. Once we arrived, there were views of the entire city and beyond. We made a visit to the morning market stocked with vegetables, clothing, and random household items along with places to sit and eat. The market area sits alongside the Macal River which runs through the town. And if you are hungry for ice cream, you’ll recognize the tune from the ice cream truck. It was the same music as at home!
Xunantunich (Maiden of the Rock)
To visit this site, you need to cross the River Mopan on a hand cranked ferry and if you’re lucky, the operator may let you take a turn at the crank. As we were entering the temple area, another man led two horses onto the ferry to cross the river back to the highway side. Horses riding a ferry? No problem.
To enter the site, we walked up a steep hill, spying some spider monkeys in a tree. The site is still being excavated in some sections, but there was a very impressive main temple with steps allowing you to climb to the top for views of the valley. A strategic location in a beautiful area.
Wilfred shared the story of how someone bought the land and reclaimed a pasture. As we walked through the site, Wilfred told us about the different plants and the beneficial uses of many of them. It was a nice wander through a few acres, and we sighted several birds - bright red, blue green, little ones with yellow or bits of red. Then we walked over to a lodge to rent canoes and take a three-hour paddle back down the river to San Ignacio, stopping for a quick swim in the river while the tiny fish nibbled our legs and we fought to stay in place with the strong current. The river was beautiful and peaceful, and we only saw a few other people. We saw iguanas swimming across, little blue herons, some cattle egrets, and various other birds. It was a relaxing bit of exercise and until we rounded the last turn, we were alone in the river. Along the way, we could see some nice houses, built by foreigners on either side of the river, some with steps and a clearing leading to the river.
Our jungle lodge offered nice rooms and good food and was a short walk to enter the famous site, settled first in 600 BC. Overall, it was an amazing site with multiple buildings, many still under mounds of earth. I was able to climb at least three temples, and the first one offered incredible views of the countryside and the tops of other temples, stretching above the trees. Our guide, Luis, was full of information to share about how the site was originally used. We started the walk by sighting several coati running through the brush and stopped to watch one dig up a tarantula which s/he preceded to tear into pieces and eat. We also saw spider monkeys and howler monkeys, along with toucans. A rich site, full of history and despite the heat, we stayed cool walking in the shade of the trees. We were able to investigate ancient food cellars dug into the earth with several levels for storing food and seeds. So much left to discover here!
Flores, Guatemala
Flores is definitely worth a visit. It’s a colorful little town on lake Peten. After we grabbed a coffee, we went on a boat ride around the lake, spotting green iguanas and egrets and other birds. We made one stop for a short hike up a hill to climb a tower for an incredible view of the lake and the area.
This was one place where we could see the impact of storms and rainfall over the last few years. The lake water has been 4-6 feet above normal for the last several years and we saw houses and other areas that had been flooded.
After a delicious lunch of taquitos, we walked around town in temperatures that were around 90 degrees. It is quite scenic, with older brightly colored homes and quaint stone streets leading up a steep hill to the church, a glowing white emblem in the afternoon sun against a clear blue sky.
Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker is one of the small islands off the coast of Belize. To reach the island, you can catch a ferry at the ferry terminal in Belize City for about a one-hour ride. There are a couple ferries, and we took the San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi with a ticket for $25.50B.
With streets of sand and golf carts instead of cars for transportation, you can enjoy walking almost anywhere on the island. Our small group walked around a bit, enjoying the slow pace and stopped at a small beach to walk among the manta rays (in very shallow water where they would brush against your feet) and then on to see the tarpons, swimming close among the mangroves. Walking down a short dock, we peered over the side to see a tiny sea horse hiding in the grasses while pelicans strutted along the beach waiting for handouts from local fisherman.
There aren’t really any swimming beaches on the island but there is a wall at one end of the island, an area known as “The Split” where you can go for a refreshing swim in the sea. The Split is a combination of nature’s work and man’s endeavor to cut through the center of the island. A storm helped create the channel so there are now two separate islands to Caye Caulker. Most of the hotels, restaurants, and tourism facilities are on the south part of the island, but it seems that development is making the north end a little more commercial.
If you decide to stay for several days, I found a place to drop off laundry – a little place called Ruby's. It might take a day to retrieve but it was a treat to have clean clothes for my last week.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley
You’ll want to invest in a day of snorkeling in the coral reefs located off the island. Another big draw for snorkelers and tourists is the opportunity to swim with the sharks. In this case, nurse sharks, that were completely unconcerned with the humans swimming alongside them. We aren’t part of their food chain, and it does make for an interesting experience and the chance to say, “Yeah, I swam with the sharks.”
The snorkeling is very good and you can see nurse sharks, moray eels (both spotted and glowing green), green sea turtles eating sea grasses, multiple types of coral - finger coral, fan, elk horn, brain, and fire coral (DO NOT TOUCH!). In the shallower waters along the reef, the fish are colorful and you might even see some that appear to be dressed in a funky outfit such as the yellowtail damselfish, with bright blue spots on a dark blue body sporting a yellow tail. And there are the elegant looking eagle rays, spotted like a leopard, swimming slowly by with a gentle wave of their wings. I’m not sure there is a better way to spend a day on the water, than a day of snorkeling followed by sipping rum punch on the catamaran canopy while sailing back to the dock. Just be aware that a windy day can make for a rough boat ride and create a strong current making swimming a challenge.
If you have the time, I’d stay a few more days in Caye Caulker. In my case, I was there because I wanted to scuba dive after a very long break. Since I was a party of one, it was more difficult than I anticipated to find a dive group. Add to that the fact that I needed to do a refresher course to check skills I hadn’t used in years. And then there was the wind! Two days of very windy conditions meant some dive shops were not going out on the water. I was lucky that I was able to find a shop (Frenchie’s), arrange the refresher course, and then spend another day and a half on dives.
Our first dive was to an area called the Tackle Box, which was a series of coral canyons. We descended to about 60-70 feet and swam through the canyons, looking for fish and eels. For our afternoon dive, we explored Esmarelda canyon and were greeted by a few Caribbean reef sharks, intimidating since they look like their larger cousin, the great white shark. But they were not too interested in us. They swam over to take a look and then quickly swam away. We also saw lobster, crab, a green moray eel, some very large grouper, a black fish with a bright blue line along its back known as the black triggerfish, along with many wrasse and other colorful fish. Snorkeling is nice but being able to go deep and swim alongside the fish is a special experience.
I would visit again. It's easy to make your way around the small country and there is plenty to see. For me, the "must see" is the time spent snorkeling or diving in the ocean. But what would you expect from a Pisces?
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