Travel Inspired

Hello:  Halo (everyone recognizes “Hello”)
Thank you:  Terima kasih
Currency:  Indonesian Rupee (approximately 18,000/$1)

Bali

Walking along the sidewalks of Ubud, I am greeted by small displays of colorful flower petals wrapped in small palm leaf boxes.  This is part of a daily Hindu ceremony to please the gods similar to prayers of thanks or the rotations seeking merit for the Buddhists.  The wandering dogs, insects and birds benefit greatly as many of the small boxes contain rice or other food.  I watched a dog patiently stand aside while a woman arranged several small boxes so he could give thanks by nosing through the boxes once she departed.  Each morning the sidewalks are swept and the process begins again.

Life can be relatively relaxed in Bali and I decided to stop here for several days to reboot after six weeks of travel.  Since I had been to Bali in the past, I didn’t feel like I had to rush around to see everything.  And since I’m traveling for so long, shopping was not really an option despite the numerous temptations.

Bali has changed in four years.  There was certainly more traffic, more variety in the tourists (now a key destination for Koreans and Japanese), and prices have increased.  I also noticed that many of the smaller shops were less likely to bargain on prices as they did in the past.  But Bali is still very affordable for the casual traveler.  There are many options for backpackers and you can find lodging for less than $30/day.  Even a more “upscale” place can be found for less than $50.  It’s not hard to find a meal for a few dollars and even spend as much as $15 on dinner as more higher end restaurants seem to have emerged in the last few years.  Perhaps there was the influence of “Eat, Pray, Love” which had just finished filming the last time I was here.  Numerous people come here for yoga and spas but you should shop around as some prices are as expensive as at home.  You can spend your time walking, shopping, getting massages and generally relaxing for less than $70/day including lodging. And it is not hard to do it for about half, especially if you are sharing a room.

Ubud:
Ubud exudes a vibe unlike that of the more touristy areas of Kuta and Seminyak, crowded with people on beach vacations.  I think people come to Ubud seeking something different. There are yoga shops, plenty of places for massage, temples, and numerous shops and markets.  On a second visit, I spent time relaxing and writing and just walking through the various streets, observing the growth since my last visit.

Seminyak:
First impression - a very dirty beach.  I was appalled at the trash that rushed onto shore with each wave.  As I ventured into the surf, strategically walking between the red caution flags advising “No Swimming”, I was jumping back as unseen objects were wrapping around my legs.  I looked down to see plastic chip bags. straws, plastic water bottles, and the occasional discarded flip flop.  Gross!!!  There were men and women raking the bits of trash into small piles in the sand.  It was a feat fit for Sisyphus.  If you want to go swimming in the ocean, it is better to stay in Sanur Beach where the water is very calm and much cleaner.

To Do:
Sacred Monkey Forest, Ubud - 20,000 IDR entry fee.  I think to think of this as the “stupid human forest” as I observe people indulging in somewhat scary behavior with wild animals.  Wild monkeys freely roam this small forest but people seem to think they are ostracized pets and try to touch them and let them climb on them.  You can take in bananas to feed them, but most people don’t get too far past the entrance before the monkeys threaten them into dropping their full bags that they can quickly loot through.  It is interesting to go in and watch the monkeys cavorting about, but watching foolish humans is just as entertaining.

Market in Ubud- For those interested in shopping, the market provides plenty of clothing, scarves, jewelry, bags, and other handmade items to keep you busy bargaining for hours.

Temples - There are plenty of temples to visit on the island as Bali is mostly Hindu.  Just remember that many temples require appropriate attire, such as a sarong to enter.  It is worth the trip to see the beauty of the art within.

Rice fields - You can find excursions to go walking in the rice fields and enjoy the emerald glowing green of the quiet hillsides.  I definitely recommend this to see a side of Bali that doesn’t include shops and beaches.

Mt. Batur - sunrise hike.  You will be getting up at 3 a.m. to climb in the dark to the top of a mountain to watch the sunrise over this volcano.  It is a great experience but make sure you are fit enough for the terrain and keep in mind that you will need a good headlamp (hands free) for the hike.  Many tourist shops advertise this hike as you walk along the streets of Ubud.

Dolphins - One of the most amazing experiences I had in Bali was the sunrise excursion into the waters off of Lovina to watch the morning frolicking of the dolphins.  Many small boats filled with people go out into the water as several pods of dolphins swim around, jumping and cavorting around the various boats.  The only problem - there are too many boats!  Everyone is trying to enjoy this unique experience and the constant zooming around of the boats is a bit crazy.  However, the dolphins seem to have a sense of humor as they effortlessly glide through the water, oblivious to the numerous boats full of camera happy tourists.

Snorkeling/Diving, Menjangan Island in the Marine National Park by Lovina - On my first visit to Bali, I went snorkeling in this park along the coast.  Although it is a bit of a journey from the south east side of the island, it is worth the trip.  From Lovina, the park is about an hour drive, but you will swim in calm warm waters and see hundreds of fish varying in size and color.  At one area, we were able to swim over to a small cave along the rocky shore and look inside to see hundreds of bats huddled along the ceiling.  Remember to wear plenty of sunscreen and even a t-shirt to protect your back from the strong sun.

Nusa Penida snorkeling/diving - You can arrange a variety of snorkeling/diving trips all along the coast in Bali.  I went for a full day to this small island off the coast.  The ride out to the site was very rough and getting in the water was just as challenging.  Some of the apprentice dive masters were seasick on the way out and I felt the effects once I entered the water.  It was delightful watching my breakfast become fish food.  But the destination was Manta Point to see the amazing giant mantas swimming off the coast.  Imagine looking down to see an animal with a wingspan of several meters, open mouth large enough to swallow you whole, and you will understand why anyone even attempts the rough ocean for a viewing.  After this adventure, the boat moved to calmer waters for the rest of the day where both snorkelers and divers were rewarded with views of spectacular fish and sea life.  If you are sensitive to rough waters, be sure to ask before booking a tour.  There are several sites that are much calmer and can make your trip more enjoyable.

Spas:
No matter where I stopped, I did not have a bad massage.  Some places are more basic than others and may only pull a curtain around you on the massage table. A couple of suggestions that cost a little more (about $10-$14/hour) but do provide you with a private room.

• Ubud Sari Health Resort
• Spa Bali, Seminyak
  

Jewelry:
There are shops everywhere and there is also the market.  Some stores do not bargain (versus the market), but the quality seems to be a bit better on some pieces.  

Hotel:  

• Aya’s Room and Spa, Ubud - A pretty good small hotel with AC and a pool.  Overall a good location for a stay in Ubud.  
• Ping hotel, Seminyak - This place was great for the price!  It is a very new hotel and the staff was very helpful.  The location was not as close to some of the shops and restaurants but you are very close to the beach and it is easy and cheap to take a taxi.
  

Food:

• Melting Wok Warung - Jalang Goutama 13 - one of my favorites for the trip.  Small menu, great price, great food and an engaging and pleasant hostess.
• Fair Warung Bale - created by the Fair Future Foundation - (traditional Indonesian)
• Warung Igelanca - great place for cheap Indonesian food
• Dolce Arancia, Jalan Goutama 17 (great Italian)
• Caramel - for the after dinner sweet tooth, incredible macaroons and other cakes
• Dapur Bunda - Jalan Sri Wedari - Indonesian Tapas
• Zula Vegetarian Paradise, Seminyak - good offering of vegetarian food

Jakarta

Planning Your Trip:

I had planned a river trip to see Camp Leaky and the orangutans, which was very difficult to arrange with the flight schedules.  I was on the east coast of Malaysian Borneo, but you can’t fly to Indonesian Borneo on the other side of the island unless you fly through cities such as Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta with the immigration facilities for someone to exit and enter the different countries.  I recommend not trying to align flights for the same day (as you can’t book a connecting schedule across the countries and various airlines) because one cancellation ruins your itinerary.  

I had everything carefully aligned, but the best made plans can also fall apart. When my return flight from Bornean Indonesia to Jakarta cancelled about two weeks before the scheduled flight, and they tried to move me to another flight eight hours later, it meant I would miss my connection to leave Jakarta in which case I would have to buy a new ticket.  I tried and tried to find a solution that would not cost me hundreds of dollars but that did not happen. So, I ended up with almost three full days in Jakarta and had a nice time relaxing a bit (yes, I did fit in one massage with a very friendly and chatty masseuse who was very curious about the U.S.), visiting a few sights, eating, and talking with some very friendly residents.  For instance, I had a very friendly and interesting Grab driver when I returned to the airport for my departure.  He wanted to practice his English, and we discussed the current war, children and phones, the history of his country, and the expense of living in the world today.  A very nice and enterprising young man. 

Practicalities:

Customs/Arrival:  You will need to complete an arrival card submission within 72 hours of arrival (https://allindonesia.imigrasi.go.id), and then you can apply for an online visa (dependent on your nationality) and prepay online.  This will make entry very easy once you arrive.  MAKE SURE you are on a government site: https://evisa.imigrasi.go.id  There are several sites that will pop up with a Google search but the official website through the Indonesian government ends in “.id”.  The other sites may charge a fee for what is a free service.

Transport: You can take a Grab to/from the airport and around the city.  There is a specific stand for Grab outside the airport terminal and if you are unfamiliar with the app, someone will help you and make sure you get into the right car when your ride arrives.  I suggest pre-loading the app on your phone and setting up your payment method before you arrive.

Money: You will need to withdraw some currency for small purchases.  I found that while in Jakarta, I could use a credit card for most meals and the hotel, and even at the museum, but cash will work best in some places since the amounts are really too small for a credit card.  And the exchange rate will make you feel like a millionaire!

Lodging:

Jakarta - Four Points by Sheraton.  A good central location with a couple of large malls a few blocks away for any shopping and offering plenty of choices for dining, as well as grocery stores for snacks.  I even grabbed a couple of meals in the hotel and have to say the lunch (some squid ink risotto) and dinner offerings were quite delicious.  Since I am a Marriott Gold member, they even brought me a tray of sweets (yummy!) and gave me vouchers for free drinks while I waited for my room (it was a very short wait).  The hotel was just down the road from the National Monument and the National Museum, a straight-forward twenty-minute walk.

Food:

Jakarta - The Plaza shopping mall was only a few blocks down the street from my hotel and had many restaurants to choose from for meals.  I even had sushi one night at Sushi Hiro, ate at Ramen Girl another time, and a Salad Stop for a quick lunch.   All were good and there is even a Starbucks for anyone who craves the familiar.

Places visited/Area Sights/ Notable Activities:  

National Monument.  Although traffic is crazy in the morning and I was walking from my hotel, there were officers helping to direct the traffic to make crossing the street a bit less hazardous.  This is where you will need some local currency - you have to pay for a tourist ticket (30,000 IDR) to buy a ticket to the observation deck at the top of the monument (24,000 IDR).  So, that’s about $3.  Since I was short a few rupiah (actually 6,000 which is about 33 cents U.S.), a nice young woman bought the tourist ticket for me (on her phone) and then let me take a photo of the code for entry. I gave her the all the cash I had to reimburse her for most of the ticket.  They would not take a credit card because the payment amount was too little.  Of course, I profusely thanked the young woman who seemed very happy to help me out.  

There were several groups of school children milling around the monument since I’m sure this is a popular field trip.  I went to the top of the monument with several small children (and their teacher), so we could all enjoy the views of the city and then returned to the bottom floor to review the displays explaining the history of Indonesia.  As I walked through the displays, two young women from another school group, Jasmine and Freya, started talking with me. They asked questions like, “What do you like best about here?”, “What foods are you eating?”, “Do you like music?”, “Do you like flowers?”, and of course, “Do you have Chipotle where you live?  We LOVE Chipotle!”  It is a bit hilarious that fast food touches all corners of the globe!

We chatted a bit about my travels and their schooling and we all agreed that we liked Taylor Swift. When the teacher walked over, I explained that we were having an intercultural discussion.  She laughed and took a photo and video as a few more girls and one or two boys had joined the group.  Before I left, I told them about my website and asked a teacher to take a photo of the three of us.  These are the interactions you can’t plan and always remember!

National Museum - From the National Monument, I marched through the sun and across the street to the National Museum and wandered the four floors learning more about the history of the Indonesian islands and the struggles with the Dutch.  It was a beautiful museum that can be covered in a few hours.  I especially enjoyed the scenic background video of the area showing the transformation from sea life to land animals to the present day. Very captivating!  There was also a wall covered with portraits depicting the variety of faces found in Indonesia.  An impressive display of the diversity within the country. The numerous stone sculptures along with other artifacts make this museum an excellent stop on a visit to Jakarta.

The Plaza Indonesia mall - As in many other countries, the mall is a very central place for the locals.  This mall had very high-end shops and the afternoon thunderstorms and pouring rain gave me a good excuse to wander around inside. I had to go through a security screening to enter the mall, but it was filled with people enjoying the shops and was very safe.  I also visited the Grand Indonesia Mall which was around the corner and was filled with shops and restaurants. Another very busy place for people to gather. Then there was the Sarinah mall, across the over-street bridge and filled with gorgeous batik dresses, blouses, jackets, and shirts for men.  There were also purses, shoes, and decorative items for the home, along with jewelry and perfume.  It was a good place to wander and buy a more authentic souvenir.  Malls in Asia are packed - people shopping, eating, and socializing.  So good to see!